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TOP CHEF!



M6 again gives us the opportunity to dismay at the stupidity cathode. Thus, in "Top Chef", the new reality TV group, can we see all concentrated the failings that we abhor in life in general and especially in the kitchen: superficiality, big head competition.
In this issue, we see the chef Thierry Marx to ask a candidate distraught: "why do not you use the orange blood while we are in a season? . Apart from the perfect stupidity of the remark to which we refuse to extend - as the "high season" of blood orange, more or less coincides with that of the ordinary orange, used in the recipe - we note with emotion Mr. Marx has entered into the concept of "seasons", who served us long ago, his restaurant in the castle Cordeillan-Bages of mushrooms and oysters in July. When we expressed our surprise, the director of room We were curtly replied: yes, but they are classics of the head.
This friendly chief who eat with chopsticks - so chic! - Practice the martial arts, they say, and likes the tuna, the main ingredient of a dish in which the jury decided he participated in the last paramount issue, disregarding the most basic ecological intelligence.
Mr. Marx is a great admirer of the rising sun, and not her press agent who contradict us. Japan's largest consumer of bluefin tuna, is also primarily responsible for the threat to the species. It is therefore regrettable that Mr. Marx in customs matters most heartbreaking.

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La Porte Montmartre: we had better shut up!




Not long ago, we told you the good of the Grands Boulevards the brewery open 24 hours per day. Unfortunately, we returned, and it was much worse. We saw the hotdog to 8.40 € with his sausage at half mast, the bartender unpleasant, the waitress who becomes suddenly blind when it calls ... and we left after waiting too long to simply be noticed.
That'll teach me to speak well!

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Valentine: our tips for 2011

And you, how was Valentine's Day this year? Chic and cheap? Dull, chick? In these times of scarcity, when moreover the feast of love falls on a day when only bad restaurants are open, that you it is our feasts?

Some beautiful products, little kitchen, caressing a long day before the fire, and voila. That's how we emulate next year.

First, a brief stint at the fish in the Rue Cadet: some smelts and bottarga. A little further down the street, Speck thinly among the Italian delicatessen, some goat cheese dried opposite. Bread, you buy divine, the morning market of the Church of Pantin or lacking in your favorite baker accomplice.

is coming home.

Throughout the day, coiled on the couch, you can sample at will a few thin slices of seasoned Poutargue lemon pepper and olive oil (Portugal, A Capela dos Olivais , the families will Baussan among Oliviers & Co, the fresh herb), a little speck, cheese slices, a little fried smelts (sprinkled Flower Moon Olivier Roellinger, pepper, lemon drops, fried parsley), accompanied by a lovely Champagne ( Larmandier Bernier, Blanc de Blancs).

The charm works.

And if we do not have all these marvels at hand, you say? Well, we improvise with the materials at hand, and nobody wants you, because basically, for a successful Valentine's Day, just like it.

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Alain Passard: it is beautiful?

So it's almost ten years since I wrote to Alain Passard to complain of a lunch at L'Arpege heartbreaking. To be honest, I expected nothing in return for that stammering. But accepted the invitation of the maestro who claimed via his press secretary make amends. And did one of the best meals of my life. Like what, when and guest is announced, things can be very different ... and better value for money.
After this second breakfast, I explain again to Alain Passard, who remembered only some of the contents of my letter, the reason for my confusion first, and he admitted to having eaten divinely When prompted by him. The leader ended the exchange by a "much better, then you come back? It is the beautiful?"
I do not know what to answer, and snicker at the silly joke, before taking any measurement of the expression, as it is true that Alain Passard, despite all the talent that he now concedes, "is beautiful" . Open a random women's magazine: Passard is the new Martin! Some titles? Alain cultivates his garden, Alain plays clarinet, Alain roasted poultry, Alain takes the pose of Rodin's Thinker in front of a wall painted with a sponge, a tubercle on the shoulder ... ad lib.
And me, I want more ... Is it because the beautiful?
retrospect, ten years later, while the lunch menu is 120 €, I want to answer him: "Let's start by making peace." For beautiful, one thinks!