Paradoxical Gazzetta. What contrasting impressions and memories mixed in the restaurant Peter Nilsson, where we dined half a dozen times in two years. It was sometimes very good. Analysis in five points:
- The home decor with accuracy About the chef's gourmet food without the heaviness - not prices - the "big table". The downside: noise. But we love the bar.
- The kitchen: some dishes grandiose (if you go see the famous black pudding batter, rush), beautiful vegetables and always beautiful juices and broths. It is often tasty bite, always light. Downside: too often approximate cooking (asparagus: crunchy, yes, almost raw, no!), Temperatures sometimes risky and lack of appetite. It is a risk of minimalism: with these plates clean, the cord on the product, we can not not cheat. It is immediately apparent when the head is off base.
- Service: Professional and efficient. The downside: It has rarely seen a staff so reluctant to share the customer the kitchen of a chef. At the Gazzetta is doing his job aggressively, but without an ounce of passion or empathy. You will not ever look into the eyes, it is already elsewhere. At this point, it is quite disturbing. The impression that we will never hear a word from the mouth of servers and pressed mute. Except for the friendly bartender.
- Wines: short but honorable selection of Mediterranean wines. The downside: Selection poorly suited to the cuisine, the Nordic influences. It is especially striking for white wines, where it's hard to find the freshness and minerality desirable with the dishes.
- Prices: 5-course menu at 38 €, 7 € to 50 dishes, really cheap considering the quality of the plate. The downside: no choice. This is not necessarily too serious when dealing with a menu like this week (all dishes marked with an asterisk added to the other to dial the 7-course menu):
cold zucchini soup, pizza bianca algae and samphire
Hake line and beans, dill and olive oil
PDT News Noirmoutier, milk and bread crumbs, white summer truffle
(*) Breton lobster and leaves, fresh almonds and red onions
Lamb heart
and cabbage (*) Burrata and Chioggia burned, whey and Semi freddo
tarragon and lemon pesto, Cavaillon melon
Candied cherries and chocolate sponge cake
Result: six meals, we went out once packed, once disappointed, and four times with a feeling half fig and grape. But ultimately, we're returning. It can not be that bad.
from a recipe by Claire, from her book "Agar-agar. 
