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La Porte Montmartre: we had better shut up!




Not long ago, we told you the good of the Grands Boulevards the brewery open 24 hours per day. Unfortunately, we returned, and it was much worse. We saw the hotdog to 8.40 € with his sausage at half mast, the bartender unpleasant, the waitress who becomes suddenly blind when it calls ... and we left after waiting too long to simply be noticed.
That'll teach me to speak well!

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Valentine: our tips for 2011

And you, how was Valentine's Day this year? Chic and cheap? Dull, chick? In these times of scarcity, when moreover the feast of love falls on a day when only bad restaurants are open, that you it is our feasts?

Some beautiful products, little kitchen, caressing a long day before the fire, and voila. That's how we emulate next year.

First, a brief stint at the fish in the Rue Cadet: some smelts and bottarga. A little further down the street, Speck thinly among the Italian delicatessen, some goat cheese dried opposite. Bread, you buy divine, the morning market of the Church of Pantin or lacking in your favorite baker accomplice.

is coming home.

Throughout the day, coiled on the couch, you can sample at will a few thin slices of seasoned Poutargue lemon pepper and olive oil (Portugal, A Capela dos Olivais , the families will Baussan among Oliviers & Co, the fresh herb), a little speck, cheese slices, a little fried smelts (sprinkled Flower Moon Olivier Roellinger, pepper, lemon drops, fried parsley), accompanied by a lovely Champagne ( Larmandier Bernier, Blanc de Blancs).

The charm works.

And if we do not have all these marvels at hand, you say? Well, we improvise with the materials at hand, and nobody wants you, because basically, for a successful Valentine's Day, just like it.

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Alain Passard: it is beautiful?

So it's almost ten years since I wrote to Alain Passard to complain of a lunch at L'Arpege heartbreaking. To be honest, I expected nothing in return for that stammering. But accepted the invitation of the maestro who claimed via his press secretary make amends. And did one of the best meals of my life. Like what, when and guest is announced, things can be very different ... and better value for money.
After this second breakfast, I explain again to Alain Passard, who remembered only some of the contents of my letter, the reason for my confusion first, and he admitted to having eaten divinely When prompted by him. The leader ended the exchange by a "much better, then you come back? It is the beautiful?"
I do not know what to answer, and snicker at the silly joke, before taking any measurement of the expression, as it is true that Alain Passard, despite all the talent that he now concedes, "is beautiful" . Open a random women's magazine: Passard is the new Martin! Some titles? Alain cultivates his garden, Alain plays clarinet, Alain roasted poultry, Alain takes the pose of Rodin's Thinker in front of a wall painted with a sponge, a tubercle on the shoulder ... ad lib.
And me, I want more ... Is it because the beautiful?
retrospect, ten years later, while the lunch menu is 120 €, I want to answer him: "Let's start by making peace." For beautiful, one thinks!

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10 years already: letter to Alain Passard

Paris, April 26, 2000

Sir

Let me write you after a lunch made at your restaurant last April 4 (please find attached the addition of which he s 'acts). I confess
qu'alléché by what you hold in attractive magazine Palace, which you are the editor in the spring of 2000, I yielded to the desire to taste your cooking. As
read everywhere, and assumed by me, everything - or almost - in the lunch menu was perfect (except for a layer cake and uninspired ... everything sec), I will not repeat for fear of redundancy, praises the obvious that your talent deserves.
Just as I would not find fault with the service attentive and precise (without being cold or frozen, as in many large tables), nor the place (it is so rare to find in a modern setting this sober elegance, a word that taste) who accompanied us to dinner.
But what about a menu announced in a quarterly magazine to 390 francs, and charged 490 francs a month after the publication of that magazine? What about the fact that its new menu and prices do not appear on the map outside the restaurant? How to deny that the reproduction of the map of L'Arpege, coupled with the paean about you in the Palace, can - and seeks to - attract additional customers, and that the customer is deliberately misled? You probably will object
the menu has been modified. I would tell you that I have not found that new content has a new cost (unless a sudden and rampant inflation in the price of egg or onion, which would have escaped?). And this seems to me, after verification, valid for all products on your menu. I also say that it is very unpleasant to feel trapped and as you all know that when we booked a meal well in advance, we dreamed about and it does everything for that perfect moment becomes a real time, so we do not fall from the table to go after seeing the map. And we ask it even less when the question is, as I was accompanied by a lady.
Unfortunately, we were not yet out of our disappointments. The final blow came with the reading of your wine.
I remembered thinking of one of my friends sommeliers who had quarreled with a large head, partly because it is applied to the price of bottles of multipliers exaggerated. There was talk then, on bottles inexpensive coefficient 6-7, very rarely 8 (but on the duty, of course). I blessed God that this friend has not seen your book cellar. Some examples? Two small price (sic), so among the bottles that you sell 500 Francs, the least expensive: The Ebrescade, Marcel Richaud Cairanne from home, I buy my wine store to stupidly at ... 58 Franks, Clos de la truffle, Domaine du Deffends, the hills of Var Red Lanversin JS, I am sending to ... 45 francs a bottle. We then have a multiplier of 8.6 and another of over 11 on the retail price! For my part, I was recommended a Côtes de Bergerac, the Castle Tourmentine, I did not know, and which, for decency, I dare not reveal the margin that you release (also selling this bottle 500 Francs !). You probably just count on the ignorance of your customers' wines to dare such miracles.
finally understand that this is not just a question of money. The pleasure is priceless, they say. I do not wander longer to look at you. I will try to forget what seems like a sad abuse, moreover cynical.
I left for pleasure more than you knew me squeeze by deception. And I would have won more than your tarnished image and the memory of your dark eternal calculations.
One thing is sure, Mr. Passard, you're probably a great cook, but you're not an honest man.

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The Corot: luxury, calm and voluptuousness I

wings brushed the Rolls towers
When I lost me despite my
We arrived in a Rolls and I
Hazardous area, an isolated area

Serge Gainsbourg, Histoire de Melody Nelson

The words of the great Serge floated in the night nervousness. The sedan, which appeared to be riding his own reflection in the iridescent wet asphalt, I strained my eyes to the outside of hairpin.

Winter, Paris suburbs, lack of sleep habits that away, the stranger grabs you. But adventure point. Angel doze while a Chinese scooter goes dangerously close upon us.
In opening his eyes, we are my friends and me in the sublime setting of lush sepia Etangs de Corot, the new flagship of the luxury hospitality and cuisine of Pearl announced dagovéranienne.
We do know that we marvel at the warmth of plush lounges, corridors, landscapes, spaces and cabins of the Spa Caudalie you visit us. The home also is charming, full of gentleness and kindness. The luxury here has added an ally of choice: goodness. It's like home, only better (no need to take out the trash ).
The resort offers 3 restaurants. Tonight we will experience the most ambitious The Corot, gourmet cuisine (there's also the Cafe des Artistes , so chic bistro and, in season, the huts in the face of divine ponds). The Chief Benoit Bordier, Jean defector from - bibendum a button - is in charge of all this, and we can taste a sample of the new map, six services. We shall
menu titled MENU (so far so good).

Subtitles: Mixed Impressions

... Or how Corot inspired card

We guess the will to include the proposal in the parentage of the painter Jean-Baptiste Camille Corot, who says the site mayor of Ville d'Avray , spent long hours at the edge of ponds storing its equipment in a wooden hut beneath a weeping willow on the edge of the old pond . It does not specify if it was sometimes used to scrape the testicles, but it's still terribly well informed. The problem is that this desire for affiliation manifests itself a bit rough: Mixed Impressions reminds us more of Philately ( offset and intaglio , intaglio and gravure are such printing techniques mixed stamps) that the painter named above, and we do not really understand what that inspired Corot in the map that we will discover (and pass on where instead of or despite the protests of outraged Jacques Capelovici ). The references do not stop there, the butler is a painter in overalls - my friends find it nice, and I winded - and there are digital reproductions of paintings of giant master (Corot, not hotel ). The decor in general is quite successful, the cozy atmosphere at will, so hunting lodge remixed by Jacques Garcia , fair and cordial service, finesse, finish put you at ease.

Chic diners, Bordier butter from home in Saint-Malo, always compelling, and extra bread.

Mise en bouche: oyster and salmon eggs, a delicious simplicity, freshness impeccable, some diced crunchy toast for a treat that makes you really appetite rather than start you off.

Then a palette of colors, textures, products, condiments to the title abounding:

Trout and Green Apple Vodka Jelly
truffle oil Sesame

Tile Grout banana pepper
Seared Foie Gras

We also used a glass cold cream of artichoke (with cashew nuts and a truffle flavor), which then I can not whether it is a second placing in the mouth or a satellite dish which I associated with going to attack me. In any case, it is delicious.

The dish, it leaves a little confused, because a little tote, fun certainly, but probably good we would like to see more head to get wet, we suggest reading an angle of attack, its perfect combination. We wanted to know how to balance these condiments (vodka or sometimes dominated the banana products) - or just how involved (tile sesame?). It is also the boldness of these ingredients combined to make one dares not necessarily seek the association, whether one is walking on eggshells, where one would like that take us by the creator hand, we needle, reassures us.

We finished combining the semi-cooked foie gras in a creamy artichoke-cashews, and that was good!

Then came a plate of high-flying, high house, confusing control:

Rouget ... pumpkin molasses, turnip golden ball

The mullet is beautifully cooked his deliciously crispy skin, turnip that comes with it is firm and melting at a time (yes, as Eva Longoria), mashed pumpkin molasses gives the union the power bittersweet she claims. Is clear. It's perfect.

far we drank a glass of Champagne Bruno Paillard A glass of Pessac Leognan Les Hauts de Smith 2007 pleasant wooded but very present, a dry 2008 jurançon domain Larredya which worked perfectly with the mullet. Food and wine solidly designed and made even better: nice glasses, decanters beautiful, nice waiter.

And now the meat dish. No, fish. No meat. No, ... Well, both at the same time, then? I do not know if this is a signature of Benoit Bordier, but it is clear that no leader will have made me enjoy in just a few meals, as many dishes combining land and the sea is always risky. But Benoit was not scared, and strikes us, front, better than a catfish: a fish-calf!
Here, as often destabilizes the proposal first: Veal ... Rice in ink, haddock and lemon . That same damn inflated if one puts in place the scale and type of clientele that brews such establishments. The piece is exquisite veal, juicy, melting, condiments work. Dared, but it happens!

Very nice bottle of Pessac Leognan (obsession? No, the house wine!) Castle Smith Haut Lafitte 2003 in perfect harmony, vintage point. A real delight, and yet we're not.

Yarrow, Tonka bean, tangerine sorbet
My god it's hard to get noticed with a chocolate dessert! How ungrateful he is to go after the sinking of Michel Bras, after cromesquis Philippe Conticini, after Pepito our childhood! And then, brace yourself: it won! And without bluster! Simplicity to die, the camera chocolate is a silky, with an intensity and a long finish diabolical and flaky, caramelized to perfection, just a few milliseconds of the excessive, balanced on the edge of the majestic risk, crumbling to the divine ... hallelujah!

Taylors LBV 2001 Porto - but without folly choice of good quality.

Happy, yet we accueillîmes last service with a touch of skepticism Citrus ... Blood Orange, Lavender and Petal crispy. Maître Capello tells me that petal is masculine. The dessert is good, the frozen blood orange a bit too taken (Agar-Agar when you hold us?), Lavender is discreet, and how pistachios pralines are jogging it off, but we can not help regretting that the order of desserts has not been reversed, because we believe that the flavors here are much less heady than the chocolate that preceded our happy palace. And the agreement is still on the same port, where we would have thought maybe a demi-sec Champagne.

After all this, it can be a bit groggy from the creative whirlwind behind Benoit Bordier, who often amazes us, challenges us and sometimes, rarely, plunges us into perplexity. Some want it more slender, less convolutions. That night was in any event a great success, this new card a real promise, and this sends a real source of pleasure, we would not think for a moment to sulk.

must rush to Ville d'Avray to find the kitchen full of courage and zeal, against the current of humming docile western suburbs. We will definitely return, test Caudalie care, we escape to a true Weekend in the country a quarter of an hour from the capital, try the other tables in the summer, and with any luck, compare Eva Longoria again in a turnip golden ball!

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Golosi, Zemmour and Simone Veil!

Today we breakfasted, the lovely Veronica and me, in I Golosi . Sitting beside the polemicist Eric Zemmour accompanied - dixit Veronica - a chick, whom the media cockerel was trying to brag among risotto and tiramisu qualities " The Eternal Husband" by Fyodor Dostoyevsky : it is imperative that you buy it DARK, sussurrait he it's cheap, it in paperback.

was fun. And as ridiculous. So fun.

I already said all the good I thought this table, and I am sorry to admit that this lunch there, despite a divine company did not break three legs to a duck. We found the linguine a bit bland and a little chick Parma. Even Francesco seemed out of sorts. Good.

Not enough to whip a cat, as if pleased to hear that Simone Veil, a feminist of the first hour, which also breakfasted in places, but upstairs. And perhaps that, despite the smile of Veronica did not go well on Tuesday afternoon, at the time of strong coffee. Simple geographical sense. One to sit too close to Eric, and much too far from Simone.

What it takes, joy ...

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Vintage: Paul Minchelli for Valentine

A quick word on a leader not a media whose work has nevertheless had a crucial influence on the cuisine of the sea as we know it today. Once at the helm of the restaurant Duke, now at the piano of his new restaurant on 21 a nice table which we'll talk. But for now, back to what is still the reference book for all lovers of fish and crustaceans, the bible of the genre, I named: DUKE entire seafood . This book, too long since exhausted, reached skyrocketing prices among collectors, and should soon see a new youth: reissue plus a replay by the master himself, expected very soon.
In the meantime, the back of the spoon you a recipe book full of love and poetry, by Claude Brouet and Slavik, which appeared in the original edition on page 388, under the heading: "The people we love and we call "next to the fried clam Lino Ventura and pie Warm mackerel Alain Chapel.

recipe for white fish for two

between two plates, bain-marie
way ... Didi

Choose fishmonger with his accomplice, one or two fish very fresh. Him to lift the nets. Returning home, install them side by side, nature, with nothing in a large dish, cover with a plate identical. Place the whole pan on a water bath. Turn. Monitoring the time of poaching, laundry, al dente, according to thickness of fillets. Remove. Used in these dishes warm. Salt and pepper the pieces cooked in their own sweat, stitching banderillas dill or parsley, with a good butter from Charentes. Show all this white, white and green. Eat healthy this whole spoon, with its juice, like that as such, nature, laughing and groaning with happiness ... while embracing your guest
... ... ... reoffend

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Grands boulevards, small annoyances

I see you here, you have put on your best shoes, and left your wife to breast the youngest, to go to the Grands Boulevards enjoy a Coke Zero with your Italian cousin in a bad sushi bar? Is that reasonable? Do you know that life, true, nutritionists hell, is paved of goodies to anyone who will bother with a tad of cholesterol? Do you know that, as a Michel Berger-minus-the-tubes, you might anyway infarction on a tennis court? Whether you like Felix Faure tu ruptured aneurysm each marital indiscretion? Or worse, that you might like Balzac knocked off against the chimney after you have tripped over the soft carpet of the show? Think about it ... worth a little stew, right?
Anyway, here's what you refer to the bewildering jungle traders of crepes and kebab oozing fat, teeming Faubourg Montmartre and around. Within a radius of 500m around the station Grands Boulevards of Paris metro, which in my time was still called Rue Montmartre. But local residents have had enough of being asked the direction of the Sacred Heart by hordes of merry artists in Tokyo. And the Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens finally hear them rattle moving. But hay
considerations rail, what have we below the elbow to put you in the tooth? (Our beautiful language is full of expressions actually retarded). And when our language is full, it is not that far from salivating. Come on!
For lunch first, few simple options: the pleasant Bogory 's Café, palm hospitality and kindness in the neighborhood, without genius sandwich but flawless, pasta salads and fruit for luncheurs hurry who want to balance some plush seats, but avoid rush hours. Formulas are doing well, all less than 9 €. In the adjoining gallery varieties, some good canteens, starting Bar Variety , the inimitable atmosphere is quaint, a little dirty as the boss, crowded, but the Beef Burger Salers holds road, served on request with a slice of foie gras, for cheap. The cheapest coffee in Paris (€ 1 tablespoon) is unfortunately not the most (1.50 € since mid-January), however it is still one of the least desirable. Small room stashed upstairs, so gambling for poker players. During our visit in mid-January, the boss seemed to take a millennium hangover accompanied by a secular senility, and he remained Eve party favors from the floor to ceiling bi-monthly cleaning, at best, so.
A little further into the passage, a good roast chicken organic, to 11.50 €, crisp and generous. Formula, however, preventable. Also note that the breakfast is that it is easier to get a table at trendy Passage 53 - soon a detailed review.
For a cocktail, nice bunch of vials of Zinc Cellars, served by the glass (14cl), to the pot (50), or bottle. Reasonable prices, this is not the case with dishes, too expensive for the brewery honest vacuum (salmon rillettes, 9 €, € 19 steak ... it's not!). You can push up the streets of Treviso, in Around a glass unlikely wine bar-restaurant in decor Deschiens-Friendly , with its selection of wines nature, which means some very nice bottles and lots of grape juice oxidized, sparkling, unstable, like most of these drinks too fragile Dung arrives at your table because they are poorly transported and poorly stored. One can dine there, simple and good. Prices that were soft but did not undergo the crisis (careful!), Home buddy, real nice atmosphere.
If you prefer beer and a long list of pubs interchangeable, as Sullivan's , and two or three cafés in the same barrel back to the boulevards Rex , and especially avoids the inept Café OZ welcomed by bouncers foul, rates surreal ( Mojito € 15 not good? Are you sure?) and music anywhere.
At this point you should begin to dinner for good, and it is possible! Few extra steps will lead you in Jean , starred restaurant in the Rue Saint-Lazare, welcome deadpan laugh very knowledgeable - and quirky - Jean-Frederic Guidoni, former director of Taillevent room and kitchen held high by Anthony Boucher recently invested (after Benoit Bordier, party in the suburbs, we'll talk to them both. And eggs, if necessary, even if it bears no relation). Rates accordingly.
can also - on request! This is crucial! - Dinner on Rue Richer in the Office , not so long best new restaurant in the capital category low prices, often stunning kitchen - which is nevertheless the minimum when it offers only two courses to choose from . But prices have increased, average ticket out wines around 40 € 26 he cons y 'just a year, and kitchen a bit less punchy. That's sad ransom laurels. Note that as Jean The Office have a wine special attractive - even a rare intelligence for Jean - at prices from.
Finally, for the regional, you can nibble bold, correct and Toulouse, surrounded by drunken rugby players in J'Go . Or go to greet us Francesco, one of the very competent servers unbeatable I Golosi , Italian top-flight cuisine - pasta miraculous wine cellar full of bottles dazzling (but you will not know that word of mouth, otherwise you will have to settle for bimonthly selection, small but still relevant), real nice authentic Italian cuisine, local produce, with occasional flashes of genius ( randomly a few meals: fondantissime a lamb, veal tartare with truffles and cheese that we brought a tear to the eye, a wonderful polenta, place the yellow lemons, artichokes air, real Vongole, and a model tiramisu). Addition elastic, 20 € per head for pasta and a glass of wine, very expensive for a full meal with truffles and great wines.
remains to meet our friends a night owl, with a real nice surprise: Porte Montmartre, brewery open 24/24 and 7 / 7, cooking very respectable - although rare cheeseburger, salads and quiches that defend themselves really well, and the joy of eating a great prime rib at 4am, generous portions, almost invariably warm welcome, pro and Care, which is passed to 14h or later in the evening. A model of cool beer, so much less taken the lead as Brébant facing it with its beautiful scenery, but where a server haughty nibbling on plates of fries waiting on the past before bringing them to the customers (sic ) By pushing a little further south but this time it can also be very pleased by opening a Cote Rotie La Turque 2005 - I dare not reveal the price until it's gift - the Vaudeville famous brewery facing the exchange, which in turn is dangerously loose on the rate of solids ... open late, host variable. Across the Boulevard is no longer the General Lafayette , brewery also correct, frequented by some birds and the midnight theater people freshly sorted applause (yes, yes, put away, as it is for cars).
And last but not least, the place where - come rain, snow or sale, and any time of day and night - do not put your feet, I named: ROOTS. One day I'll tell you, but for now, I still have the wallet too badly.

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How I stole my own camera at Alain Ducasse

week Last, an impulse that I still can not figure led me to the lovely lacquered door of Aux Lyonnais, The famous bistro of Alain Ducasse, which I will talk soon side kitchens.
But I tell you what m'avint after that, however little tipsy by the low consumption of alcohol made this evening (given the astronomical prices the wine list), I had inadvertently left behind my little camera, the very one with which I gratifies you regularly shots worthy of a Man Ray untalented. The same evening, filled with gratitude phone, I espied the lovely attendant that I will get the tool kindly found and that, as soon as possible.
So here I am, three days later, on Tuesday, February 2 at 18h32, always pushing the door to God's ancient pub Market by its majesty Ducasse, and lo and behold, I found I all alone in the premises. I'm hooting of good night across the street chanting Anybody? loudly, inspect under the slightest faux leather sofa, not a sound nor a face, nothing. The terrible silence. I venture until worried kitchens ... same story! No one but the ghosts of what once was a restaurant (I speculated, optimism).
I still have time to see, plastered in several places in the office, the following note, worthy of the best of the Hippopotamus hexagon, and that I transcribe - including stars - as discovered with amazement

PROPOSE TO EACH TABLE
** ** DESSERT WINE Muscat or rasteau
** ** ** ** and KF Repasse DIGESTIVE
* ** * WATER Repasse
** ** TWO FOR 1 ENTRY if no entry
X2 ** SCALLOPS IN FLAT
DESSERT FOR TWO ** if no dessert

O time pending your flight, let me rethink fleetingly in this surreal moment in wonderful Roland Topor, who undoubtedly would have died if he had an early one day discovered a note of this type on the wall of an alleged bar. Sic transit gloria mundi .

daze as to authenticity mimeographed, I turned willingly path ( Anybody? No? Still no?) And me toward the door mythical ZE bistro, that seest- I there no, slipped between a notebook and a buffer to control expense, just under the body? Won! Panasonic my darling! Hi! Hola? Anyone? Good evening? Really? Let . Here I am alone with my fate, as Empress Sissi and less well dressed, on the edge of a decision that I measure will make me a different man.
I spear Arsene Lupin self-stripping, and neither one nor two, take hold of the camera, then nonchalantly wanders to the door pretty stripped-then-painted-by-Mr-Ducasse-itself-in- person-one-Sunday-spring-with-his-little-hands-that-feel-good-d'olive-oil-and-the-pie-in-crust. The fruit of my
marauding well back in the cabin, I find myself in the street, cross at this precise moment a young man well dressed, which I recognize to be the carrier who officiated three days earlier in the same place, who greets me politely politeness that I imitate, while spawning a step towards the Stock Exchange almost tranquil, as between the chuck golden boys, with the satisfaction of having repaired fool risking my reputation - if not my life - a real injustice.

Now the way is open, that my life has shifted in the crime and excess, as the vortex of larceny crushed me in his palm deleterious, I can no longer turn back. Next week I will go to Passage 53, empty before stunned Japanese funds pitcher I was charged € 30 a glass! Pray for me.

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Cooking classes in Video: Fit In?

Small video clip of the very good local cooking classes - run by a Australian - that we took to the friendly Yangshuo Cooking School, even if our gentle leader, who claimed to be called "Amy" had a bit of diction Winehouse at the end of world tour ...



Yes, we do drag that Pouic!

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Mosto: small but tough!

Discovery on the advice of Alex, manager of the restaurant the hotel G a very pretty table, Beijing, run by a Venezuelan leader, coupled with a director Italian Room - duffer! Migraine pretty globalized perspective? Taste for yourself!

As formulated so dear Poe translated by no less expensive Mallarme was in the bleak December . To comfort us, we chose the "December Tasting Menu" at 38 €, in other words a small fortune for the average Chinese, an acceptable price for the expatriate base for a trifle that one day dined at Alain Passard (choose your camp , comrade! Unless you are a true "friend, in which case you have no choice, you're probably in the category number one, that of the average Beijing!)

We went after a maze of corridors unlikely center embellished with whimsical commercial elevators, in a nice canteen chic candles in every corner and more, soft and dark between Flameche. It's very cute, pretty cliche European (in the genus push the door of a French restaurant in San Francisco or Berlin , yes, they are the same!).

A table, friendly and professional service, fine glassware, six dishes to come, very nice wine in the world. Random or almost: Crozes-Hermitage small hive Chapoutier 2007-41 €, Nero d'Avola Chiarramonte of Firriato to 26 €, good Grüner Veltliner in Brundlmayer and careful selection of the Rias Baixas Albarinhos (33 to 66 €), variety / relevance / price well above the average Beijinger.

the menu:

tuna tataki sauce, tamarind, soy, sweet potato chips and rocket

duck fillet marinated with lemon, oranges, lettuce and caviar Citric

truffled risotto with red wine, broth and Parmesan tile

Roasted salmon, rice with dried mushrooms, creamy sauce with mussels, salad green apple

Braised Lamb length, roasted vegetables and potatoes with rosemary

Panna Cotta with Passion Fruit, creamy chocolate mousse, banana and toasted pistachios

and recall (not on the menu, so)

chocolate soufflé and ice Sichuan pepper

All this was very good, even if our European palace was unfortunate slight dominance of Asian condiments in the entrances (Soy sauce for tuna, ginger and oyster sauce for duck). These first two entries have appeared a little consensus, the proposal does not pretend we assumed to term. Caviar citric inspired spherification Elbulliennes proliferating in recent times in the gourmet dishes we were not blinded, although often more appropriate here than elsewhere (at Arzak, for example). Some reservations masterfully swept by Hurricane risotto, cooking inimitable flavors deep and true icing on the cake, parmesan broth thunder, judiciously aniseed, which benefit from a healthy intake of cool a dish without it verged on aromatic saturation. A real big flat head, intelligent and intuitive, and animal brain, both rich and air. A marvel.

followed by two dishes: salmon cooking that will provide a copy unpredictable but perfect agreement with our red wine - once again our habits make us doubt the necessity in a tasting menu of two dishes containing rice, but seems that our Chinese neighbors there are no complaints - and the lamb, beef and candied in good persistence, but with a garnish (vegetables) really missing embossed, soft, no pep. For us the only false Note the menu, in which flat we would have liked more contrast, citrus perhaps more fresh no doubt.

Desserts top flight, panna cotta is divine with its myriad of additional small satellites, and ice Sichuan pepper accompanying blown chocolate (pretty good, but technically it is rather a flowing , at most one based ) is breathtaking, a wise and benevolent conclusion as the blink of an eye chilli.

Home

better than charming, both pro and accomplice, final discussion with a humble leader and veteran, spent the whole time that we returned two days later, and we'll be back with eyes closed, as soon as possible. With the feeling of finding talented friends and steeped in humanity. You can say the same for many places, you?