Discovery on the advice of Alex, manager of the restaurant the hotel G a very pretty table, Beijing, run by a Venezuelan leader, coupled with a director Italian Room - duffer! Migraine pretty globalized perspective? Taste for yourself!
As formulated so dear Poe translated by no less expensive Mallarme was in the bleak December . To comfort us, we chose the "December Tasting Menu" at 38 €, in other words a small fortune for the average Chinese, an acceptable price for the expatriate base for a trifle that one day dined at Alain Passard (choose your camp , comrade! Unless you are a true "friend, in which case you have no choice, you're probably in the category number one, that of the average Beijing!)
We went after a maze of corridors unlikely center embellished with whimsical commercial elevators, in a nice canteen chic candles in every corner and more, soft and dark between Flameche. It's very cute, pretty cliche European (in the genus push the door of a French restaurant in San Francisco or Berlin , yes, they are the same!).
A table, friendly and professional service, fine glassware, six dishes to come, very nice wine in the world. Random or almost: Crozes-Hermitage small hive Chapoutier 2007-41 €, Nero d'Avola Chiarramonte of Firriato to 26 €, good Grüner Veltliner in Brundlmayer and careful selection of the Rias Baixas Albarinhos (33 to 66 €), variety / relevance / price well above the average Beijinger.
the menu:
tuna tataki sauce, tamarind, soy, sweet potato chips and rocket
duck fillet marinated with lemon, oranges, lettuce and caviar Citric
truffled risotto with red wine, broth and Parmesan tile
Roasted salmon, rice with dried mushrooms, creamy sauce with mussels, salad green apple
Braised Lamb length, roasted vegetables and potatoes with rosemary
Panna Cotta with Passion Fruit, creamy chocolate mousse, banana and toasted pistachios
and recall (not on the menu, so)
chocolate soufflé and ice Sichuan pepper
All this was very good, even if our European palace was unfortunate slight dominance of Asian condiments in the entrances (Soy sauce for tuna, ginger and oyster sauce for duck). These first two entries have appeared a little consensus, the proposal does not pretend we assumed to term. Caviar citric inspired spherification Elbulliennes proliferating in recent times in the gourmet dishes we were not blinded, although often more appropriate here than elsewhere (at Arzak, for example). Some reservations masterfully swept by Hurricane risotto, cooking inimitable flavors deep and true icing on the cake, parmesan broth thunder, judiciously aniseed, which benefit from a healthy intake of cool a dish without it verged on aromatic saturation. A real big flat head, intelligent and intuitive, and animal brain, both rich and air. A marvel.
followed by two dishes: salmon cooking that will provide a copy unpredictable but perfect agreement with our red wine - once again our habits make us doubt the necessity in a tasting menu of two dishes containing rice, but seems that our Chinese neighbors there are no complaints - and the lamb, beef and candied in good persistence, but with a garnish (vegetables) really missing embossed, soft, no pep. For us the only false Note the menu, in which flat we would have liked more contrast, citrus perhaps more fresh no doubt.
Desserts top flight, panna cotta is divine with its myriad of additional small satellites, and ice Sichuan pepper accompanying blown chocolate (pretty good, but technically it is rather a flowing , at most one based ) is breathtaking, a wise and benevolent conclusion as the blink of an eye chilli.
Home
better than charming, both pro and accomplice, final discussion with a humble leader and veteran, spent the whole time that we returned two days later, and we'll be back with eyes closed, as soon as possible. With the feeling of finding talented friends and steeped in humanity. You can say the same for many places, you?
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