Sunday, July 18, 2010

Can Camera Flash Damage

Routes: The warm

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That's what happens when you wait long, when you listen to the rumor, when we hope as an address to remain very honorable one is a little disappointed!
Originally, there was "time to time, we have never set foot. And yet, God knows if Paris is abuzz with the murmur of the stunning paean to Sylvain Sendra, young chief of the premises.
Other times, other customs: the almost as young Sylvain gentrified by moving Rue de Pontoise, a few from the River Seine, the Tour d'Argent, the cathedral and portfolios that best filled the side of Faidherbe Chaligny. This time we go.
The room is sleek and modern, a bit noisy as crowded, tables close together, and the tiny terrace is exquisite, calm and serene. The reception is perfect, the service pro adorable and the prices are smiling (carte menu at 36 €) and the wine list is affordable splendor. In
trim, beautiful products (small mushrooms on top, at Joël Thiebaut vegetables, meat quality), worthy of a real big table. Is varied, with a touch of creativity, cooking are impeccable, the perfect dessert. So what's missing? First, everything we announced that we hoped and above: the invention, insanity, perfection, never-seen a pinch in the heart, revealing, unforgettable. And then
: temperature control - everything, absolutely everything was served lukewarm, polenta with mushrooms from the entrance, cod, saddle of rabbit, mashed ... despite the 27 degrees ambient! The taste sometimes, which misses: polenta with Parmesan / chanterelles input, too assayed cheese (inside and above) which relegates these magnificent mushrooms in a simple function of texture. Another entry, seasonal vegetables / bacon emulsion: not bad, but the thinly cut vegetables on a mandolin - to advance, while the very idea of the dish would require cutting minute - proved a little dry, a little moody, a bit dull, and the emulsion although delicious, the exchange rate and liquefy too early. It is far from flat referents in the matter: gargouillou vegetables Michel Bras, Alain Passard vegetable dishes or Mauro Colagreco. And then the chief abuses the gap: bacon emulsion, therefore, then mashed accompanying the saddle, soft and freezes and collapses on the plate so old aligot. Not pretty, not good. And re-warm. Siphon again for the sabayon (which is not one, so) announced the "Champagne" which condimenti cod: we still struggle to believe that there is champagne in there, as the flavor-saturated ethanol we made him think of a bad vodka, shame because the rest of the dish was all good. But a "very good" warm.
So, what about leaving this mixed moment (or rather "warm"?). Without doubt we return to try the card Sylvain Sendra, with a little less hope in the heart and a little more scared, to give a true second chance in this honest house, which certainly deserves. I must say that the desserts we have presented upright, as this beautiful apricot tart, clear, gourmet desire in its simplicity. And warm, as it should.

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Possible Combinations To Lock

Enfants Rouges: life is a miracle


I talk about this address as much as I love him. You write how much she means to me carefully. It will be difficult because it is a matter of the heart. Exclusive. Personal. Transferable. Like most matters of the heart - if you exclude the testimony of a few brave insolent polygamous.
I wish you could touch the finger that which emanates from a place like this. But it is elusive, like life. Because one night, if you come at the end of service, you might find embracing couples dancing on the tube in a room screened Dalida, another night, you would fall on a merry big band winemakers on a spree, crowded bar, or a room elbow to elbow up, with a trumpet player who controls the movement of food in the center of the racket, or even one night of calm between storms, you have the chance be exceptionally invited to sit at one table outside, in lovely, quiet courtyard, a beautiful summer evening, sheltered from the bustle of the city moist, to share with carefully chosen a company that intimacy miraculous only exists in certain public places.
I would also like you to understand how one day Danny, the radiant and toned hostess places, infuses what could be an ordinary neighborhood restaurant again, a wonderful poetry, a unique character, and gives it its soul. Because that is what it is: caring, availability, sensuality. What makes an address for a miracle. When you push the door of the Enfants Rouges, you quickly become something other than a client, a friend, a regular. As a member of the family. Unless Danny does not like you. But in this case, it will take you to blame yourself, to be missed humanity that awaits you. I
as you are happy with the kitchen. I've eaten so much that I could just be glowing. That would be cheating. Of course there were failures here and there. Hold the bowl with Anton, nice head, and onion jam. Hold a pigeon memorable. Hold the chuck confit with red wine. The beautiful home fries. Rice pudding. Do not complicate your life too much and things should fall, especially since the exception is elsewhere. Exactly one floor below.
Could you look this book cellar. And you sob with emotion. Without a doubt, one of the finest collection of bottles from the Rhone Valley the capital. At affordable price. And in all regions, the expertise of Danny. Not a bad taste, not a flat, in a word: elegance. I tasted many wines recommended by Danny, because I trust him, because it is true, because I love him. Because its steps are guided by passion. Not a single bad bottle. Never. None. None. Here, you drink a small or large batch, you'll love, with the velvet tannins and minerality of the tail. Huddled. Serene. Conquered. Simply happy. And you understand that wine, like life, is a miracle.

Friday, July 9, 2010

What Does A Prolapse Feel Like?

Hanoi: The prodigy "Mrs. Hien"


I leave just one of the finest restaurants in the world. And it is unrepeatable. In the impossible since no one was held, I will not tell you. Suggest, only.
The life is full of hazards. Disappointments crudest arise while the clear horizon left us confident. Spring surprises as well, as light crackers out of their box in the tumult around them.
We were in Hanoi for nearly 48 hours after a three-week trip to Vietnam. And the city was tense, noisy, arrogant. Smile less available. Urgency resonance. We tasted the cuisine of the streets in fear. And food for expatriates, fear the portfolio.
Hanoi. City still mysterious, which we will better account at the end of the trip. For now, we ate in the new restaurant designed by Didier Corlou, are Vietnam expert and chief patron of the vertical, where we breakfasted mid-pho-half grape. We've tasted a kitchen without much relevance, but without noticeable scratch. Didier Corlou So, head manager and not as a craftsman, as we see more and more sadly. Olivier Roellinger friend, and share the love and expertise of rare spices and subtle. Married to a Vietnamese. Whose grandmother is named "Hien".
In honor of this ancestry - and driven by a clever opportunism - Master Corlou has invested four months ago the walls of the former English Embassy, with a traditional Vietnamese specialty restaurant darned controlled. A reasonable prices for Hanoi. And here is stunning. The chef knows his topic on the fingertips and tongue!


Where we expected the same trial and error and approximations in the flagship (and gourmet, vertical), we discover a better cook that successful, inspired by the true tradition of Vietnamese streets, beautifully performed, hygiene and more, served with a smile in a case where no detail is amiss. Nice try, see it. The decor of colonial inspiration with glue changing neighborhood - hotels refined alongside makeshift barbeque pits and crowd of foodies squatting on the sidewalk - chic without ostentation, the tone is perfect, location great and loaded with soul, the result of a true reflection coupled with a love and expertise for what real Vietnamese food. To discover this world of flavors, shapes, colors, perfume, fresh herbs, kebabs, crispy rice paper and tofu in a single flux exquisite palette, "Ms. Hien is the ultimate. Of course, this does not prevent you from dragging your spats on the streets in search of a wilder experience, gross, random. But do not forget to come spend an hour of bliss in this magical place loaded with two stories, the small, that of a family, we discover as the keyhole of a door of the kitchen, and great, that a country of such consistency and such a variety, one might appoint a "world".
Now is the rush Madame Hien, because we know that this kind of experience is inherently ephemeral, because yes, success will come, and it will no longer serve as twenty covers tonight magic May, but a hundred and fifty - capacity plausible place - and the service will no longer have the same availability or the same candor, because yes, success will come, and it will no longer count the number of groups who will pass the magnificent portal sully the memories to come with dollars tempting, because yes, success will come with its inseparable inflation, and funky assortment of entries Traditional - a complete meal, all delights - from six to twelve or twenty euros, because yes, success will come, and the soul, as often and as always when a space has the capability, will be gradually absorbed into the sidereal void.
We'll see if Ms. Hien, whose soul seems to vibrate beyond the concept will survive success story. But I doubt it.