I leave just one of the finest restaurants in the world. And it is unrepeatable. In the impossible since no one was held, I will not tell you. Suggest, only.
The life is full of hazards. Disappointments crudest arise while the clear horizon left us confident. Spring surprises as well, as light crackers out of their box in the tumult around them.
We were in Hanoi for nearly 48 hours after a three-week trip to Vietnam. And the city was tense, noisy, arrogant. Smile less available. Urgency resonance. We tasted the cuisine of the streets in fear. And food for expatriates, fear the portfolio.
Hanoi. City still mysterious, which we will better account at the end of the trip. For now, we ate in the new restaurant designed by Didier Corlou, are Vietnam expert and chief patron of the vertical, where we breakfasted mid-pho-half grape. We've tasted a kitchen without much relevance, but without noticeable scratch. Didier Corlou So, head manager and not as a craftsman, as we see more and more sadly. Olivier Roellinger friend, and share the love and expertise of rare spices and subtle. Married to a Vietnamese. Whose grandmother is named "Hien".
In honor of this ancestry - and driven by a clever opportunism - Master Corlou has invested four months ago the walls of the former English Embassy, with a traditional Vietnamese specialty restaurant darned controlled. A reasonable prices for Hanoi. And here is stunning. The chef knows his topic on the fingertips and tongue!
Where we expected the same trial and error and approximations in the flagship (and gourmet, vertical), we discover a better cook that successful, inspired by the true tradition of Vietnamese streets, beautifully performed, hygiene and more, served with a smile in a case where no detail is amiss. Nice try, see it. The decor of colonial inspiration with glue changing neighborhood - hotels refined alongside makeshift barbeque pits and crowd of foodies squatting on the sidewalk - chic without ostentation, the tone is perfect, location great and loaded with soul, the result of a true reflection coupled with a love and expertise for what real Vietnamese food. To discover this world of flavors, shapes, colors, perfume, fresh herbs, kebabs, crispy rice paper and tofu in a single flux exquisite palette, "Ms. Hien is the ultimate. Of course, this does not prevent you from dragging your spats on the streets in search of a wilder experience, gross, random. But do not forget to come spend an hour of bliss in this magical place loaded with two stories, the small, that of a family, we discover as the keyhole of a door of the kitchen, and great, that a country of such consistency and such a variety, one might appoint a "world".
Now is the rush Madame Hien, because we know that this kind of experience is inherently ephemeral, because yes, success will come, and it will no longer serve as twenty covers tonight magic May, but a hundred and fifty - capacity plausible place - and the service will no longer have the same availability or the same candor, because yes, success will come, and it will no longer count the number of groups who will pass the magnificent portal sully the memories to come with dollars tempting, because yes, success will come with its inseparable inflation, and funky assortment of entries Traditional - a complete meal, all delights - from six to twelve or twenty euros, because yes, success will come, and the soul, as often and as always when a space has the capability, will be gradually absorbed into the sidereal void.
We'll see if Ms. Hien, whose soul seems to vibrate beyond the concept will survive success story. But I doubt it.
0 comments:
Post a Comment