Try {var pageTracker
That's what happens when you wait long, when you listen to the rumor, when we hope as an address to remain very honorable one is a little disappointed!
Originally, there was "time to time, we have never set foot. And yet, God knows if Paris is abuzz with the murmur of the stunning paean to Sylvain Sendra, young chief of the premises.
Other times, other customs: the almost as young Sylvain gentrified by moving Rue de Pontoise, a few from the River Seine, the Tour d'Argent, the cathedral and portfolios that best filled the side of Faidherbe Chaligny. This time we go.
The room is sleek and modern, a bit noisy as crowded, tables close together, and the tiny terrace is exquisite, calm and serene. The reception is perfect, the service pro adorable and the prices are smiling (carte menu at 36 €) and the wine list is affordable splendor. In
trim, beautiful products (small mushrooms on top, at Joël Thiebaut vegetables, meat quality), worthy of a real big table. Is varied, with a touch of creativity, cooking are impeccable, the perfect dessert. So what's missing? First, everything we announced that we hoped and above: the invention, insanity, perfection, never-seen a pinch in the heart, revealing, unforgettable. And then
: temperature control - everything, absolutely everything was served lukewarm, polenta with mushrooms from the entrance, cod, saddle of rabbit, mashed ... despite the 27 degrees ambient! The taste sometimes, which misses: polenta with Parmesan / chanterelles input, too assayed cheese (inside and above) which relegates these magnificent mushrooms in a simple function of texture. Another entry, seasonal vegetables / bacon emulsion: not bad, but the thinly cut vegetables on a mandolin - to advance, while the very idea of the dish would require cutting minute - proved a little dry, a little moody, a bit dull, and the emulsion although delicious, the exchange rate and liquefy too early. It is far from flat referents in the matter: gargouillou vegetables Michel Bras, Alain Passard vegetable dishes or Mauro Colagreco. And then the chief abuses the gap: bacon emulsion, therefore, then mashed accompanying the saddle, soft and freezes and collapses on the plate so old aligot. Not pretty, not good. And re-warm. Siphon again for the sabayon (which is not one, so) announced the "Champagne" which condimenti cod: we still struggle to believe that there is champagne in there, as the flavor-saturated ethanol we made him think of a bad vodka, shame because the rest of the dish was all good. But a "very good" warm.
So, what about leaving this mixed moment (or rather "warm"?). Without doubt we return to try the card Sylvain Sendra, with a little less hope in the heart and a little more scared, to give a true second chance in this honest house, which certainly deserves. I must say that the desserts we have presented upright, as this beautiful apricot tart, clear, gourmet desire in its simplicity. And warm, as it should.
0 comments:
Post a Comment