Sitting comfortably - or not - you just order your meal, and you dive into the discovery of one of the sweetest inventories that are in this world, I appointed : the wine list. Huysmans less like a dying, mentally you list the divine bottles, while your girlfriend politely bored - or not - and find the Supreme fantasize. It is sometimes necessary to herself, as steep vertical Cornas from Thierry German map of Enfants Rouges - or not, as in the wine of Petit Nice Gerald Passédat, tariffs as daunting as the unwelcoming room staff. And here he is, wearing the lapel pin the Bacchic of the Brotherhood of educated drinkers - or not - paving between tables, science prow, one who will retrieve the embarrassment that immerses you - or not - this book cellar endless - or not - heavy as thousands of references in Arzak in San Sebastian - or not, as at 21 Minchelli Paul, and in perfect harmony with the kitchen you have chosen - or not, as to La Gazzetta with its unique menu of Nordic and its wine list focuses exclusively on the Mediterranean basin (Sic), here it is, therefore, one who wears a name subject to sleep lying discrete castling a vowel: the Sommelier.
At this point, anything is possible and it depends. In case you're in a restaurant for the middle class (which is known tends to disappear from the earth's surface), such as cellar dining abound with the Parisian bobos qaurtiers - with a ladle, right bank - you have great chance of hitting a den dedicated to wines called "nature": beautiful hand made organic or biodynamic in, and often the wines without sulfites. You go for example Glass Stolen , rue de Lancry, with your friend Matthew Germond, restaurant manager and sommelier of genius in a table doubly starred in London - foot down - and will command the Holy Péray advised by the house. And wine, however young, will be completely oxidized. Undrinkable. Will you notice, we will tell you immediately that "this is normal, it is a natural wine, because you're not used, it often makes it with people who know not. But we shall return to this condescending side in an upcoming article about the best and worst of Parisian aficionados of "nature" ( The Creamery, Roots, Glass Stolen my cellar Fleury Coinstot Vino and some others).
For now, let's look at houses in which we meet the most seasoned sommelier per square meter, I named: large. Here, typically, under the gold palaces and small paper expert guides, we should have a nasty surprise that the number of zeros on the bill. For the rest, visit, benevolently guided, we should be as enjoyable as relevant. Alas! What a bitter disappointment! The last, in Jacques Décoret with a young waiter pointed but inexperienced relational We ordered Pignan 2000 - original plot in Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rayas of legend - who we all came maderized. Ruby a bad, really. We were told it was normal, "it's the style Rayas, because you're not used, I find it extraordinary." Bottle after we have exchanged elegantly laid the burden of guilt on his shoulders. End of the meal a little spoiled, malaise, lack of understanding. It's sad when it happens like this.
Later in our memories include a double star sommeliers Lawrence - and not Philippe Bourguignon, Director of professionalism dazzling room - probably drunk - or not? - Advising us, peremptory, a Hermitage Blanc (Jaboulet, Sterimberg) on our plate pigeon. It tries to speak, but no. The man staggered sees no alternative. Improbable in terms of price, given the extent of the range available, inept in terms of matching food and wine.
In the same vein, the head sommelier Thierry Marx castle Cordeillan-Bages, we recommend a food pairing that will prove most shamefully overcharged and woefully inadequate, cherry on the cake was when we were there two to try two different dishes (soy, oyster risotto for one lamb in the other), to offer the same wine (sic) on our two courses, arguing: "I'm not too much to serve two different wines at the table" (resic). If I have the courage one day I will come back to this meal so bad that it is quite comical. For now, I'm still trying to forget.
There also annoyed that the waiters do not rave over a bottle correct, but charged peaks - one of Richaud Cairanne is delicious, especially in my cellar at 10 €. Charged in the 80 € a la carte, sorry not to dance on the table - which would anyway disorder L'Arpege.
And then there are good, which will hopefully be more numerous: in Michel Troisgros recently where we were headed to a wine over 100 € a la carte, and where the waiter drew our attention a sumptuous Bandol of Domaine Tempier, Cuvée Migoo The 1998, priced gift. Thank you. There Josep Roca, at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona who dazzles us with more than perfect agreements and tariffs that are all hugs. There La Mare aux Oiseaux , St. Joachim, where the young sommelier is all passion and we offer more than grapes, a journey. There is this great sommelier, whose name escapes me, who officiated during the early years of the Astrance - the toughest - now replaced by a dazzling moron, there An Auberge en Gascogne where the president's brother Fabrice Biasiolo accompany you softly to the discovery of a cave lovingly made, there are so many sommeliers engineering - or not - I hope you fall into one of them never to look at the wine in the same way, and understand how the drink gods can convert a meal into a miracle.
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