few years ago, we went to dinner several times at Jacques Décoret at Vichy. It was in his former institution, adjoining the station, two shops oozing kebab. Deco district and not cavorting, missing service experience, but a true sincerity, and especially the plate! Playful, hectic, amazing! We opted for the big tasting menu. The chef familiarly engineering both in the invention zany - rail sparkling tomato that absorbs the straw, or "TV dinner" as an appetizer, in the technical virtuosity - snails shell of bread or an oyster unstructured which burst in the mouth, and the explosion of flavors - foie gras poached in a broth of bonito, dynamite potatoes. It was beautiful, good, enjoyable. So exceptional that we decided to repeat the experience the next night. It was a Saturday, but there was room. Curiously, this wonderful restaurant was not playing to sold out. One Michelin star was not enough to fill the small room decorated cafeteria. Maybe it was not noticeable to the taste of Vichy, he probably would prefer they address some of purring sated game in sauce and armchairs? Still, we're back at table, ready to leave for the big trip.
We order the same menu, too happy to renew experience. Ms. Décoret - the chief's wife is named Martine - we moved from his rascal of a husband a surprise menu, different. This menu-there was perhaps even more amazing than the first, picking here and there in the card and some unpublished, equally beautiful, crazy and good. We left the restaurant in tears. The following year we returned with the same happiness. Jacques Décoret had been nominated in the category "hopes" of the red guide, and it all smelled good ... but the two buttons this place! We announced an impending move to a mansion on the park. This change took years. In recent months, home Décoret reopened in a space worthy of its claims, after struggling against all, the mayor, local residents, the architect of the buildings in France - is that the family wanted a nice place Décoret in classicism of a beautiful traditional house, decorated with a progressive touch, embodied by the beautiful glass roof they were designing. This same glass that is not the taste of Vichy, which put all the sticks that they could fall under the wheels by hand in the small family business. And meanwhile, Jacques remained "hopeful." So we swore that Michelin could not stay more than a short period.
Today, the House Décoret is arguably its two buttons. Some dishes deserve three. There we breakfasted on returning from Michel Troisgros, a few weeks ago. It is a beautiful place, with highly qualified staff, a wine cellar beautifully furnished - which was not the case with the old address. And cuisine of the highest caliber, with desserts including a notch above the master of Roanne. Everything is perfect. But now, the child who laughed in all these dishes gradually died out. The kitchen has become even more control, but a little lost Crazy. The whole service seemed to us an agreed anything, overly conventional.
After the service, we spoke a few moments with the great Jacques Décoret, which now has the salt and pepper hair. He told us, tears in her eyes, her inspiring story. Emus, we thanked a proud man, a little broken. Which can no longer fun. Too much financial pressure, perhaps, too much misunderstanding especially. For years, it has been criticized Jacques Décoret too casually, too many spins, too much skill. In a word, too much originality. For years, the cook ran out of steam engineering to invent dazzling for lovers of foie gras terrine with sauce and meat. To make the Picasso for the public to Disney. To be Rimbaud when the crowd cheered Marc Levy.
Jacques has mellowed. But nothing has changed. Michelin gives it always a single star, and is even more "hope". The two stars seem to move away. Leaving the house, a word Décoret Martine: "They killed his fancy."
We do not like the all-powerful Michelin, its quasi-feudal right of life or death over restaurant. We do not see the genius dry up before our eyes. We would not want what's left of joy at Jacques Décoret exhausted before the nervousness and the ingratitude of the public and dealers.
Lorsqu'Olivier Roellinger earned his third star, earned during the years, the desire to cook for his guests had departed. When Bernard Loiseau died, critics have kicked into touch. Michelin first. As if there could be no causal link between writes the little red book and what happens in the rooms and restaurant kitchens. We hope that the guides will return to Vichy, personal info, this superb reward, before Jacques Décoret decides also to reach other stars.
We hope it is enough checks and balances, generosity and hope in this cruel little world of French cuisine to go to Jacques Décoret child's soul.
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